I am back after a long time. Thanks to my friend Jyoti, I have decided to be active once more and share the treasures I have from the great civilization of China. China has a language which defies definition. As we are used to speaking in English, we cannot really grasp the nuances of Chinese. I have tried to share some information about Chinese Poetry.

Chinese poetry is not material which I understand intellectually but it is an experience which approaches rapture. How shall I share this experience with you? This is something which one hears even a profound Chinese scholar repeating.

Once upon a time there was a Chinese student who fell in love with a lady in a temple fresco. So he stood gazing at the wall, transfixed with beauty — a case of dementia praecox, your psychiatrists would declare. But in his vision he dreamed that the gates opened to him. He married the girl and lived happily for many years. At last he woke up to tell us the story. Now how should I tell you my story? My lady does not speak your language, nor any plain language. She hardly ever speaks without insinuation. Her grammar is atrocious. In fact she uses no grammar at all.

The rough, exotic, kaleidoscopic language structure of the Chinese poets has always been a stumbling block to one who attempts translation. Whether Chinese poetry can ever be translated into any Western language still remains in doubt. Take the example of the English version of the very first stanza of the Book of Odes.

Hark! from the islet in the stream the voice
Of the fish-hawks that o’er their nest rejoice!
From them our thoughts to that young lady go,
Modest and virtuous, loth herself to show.
Where could be found, to share our prince’s state,
So fair, so virtuous, and so fit a mate?

It goes without saying no Victorian ever lived in the Far East twenty-one centuries ago. In the original the first stanza of the song contains only sixteen syllables.

The ju jiu (chu-chiou) is a water bird distantly related to the brightly colored mandarin duck. Guan guan (Kuan-kuan) is the call of the male for the female.

Guan guan the ju-jiu
From the islet in the stream.
A sweet retiring girl
The princely man will woo.^*

^* Legge’s prose version of the same song begins as follows:

Kwan-kwan, go the ospreys
On the islet in the river.
The modest, retiring, virtuous, young lady:
For our prince a good mate she.

The Chinese Classics, Vol. IV. Pt. I. London, 1872. p.1. This translation is fairly accurate, considering the politico-ethical bias in interpreting the classics then prevalent in China.

If it be necessary to render this stanza into conventional verse form, I for one would prefer the following doggerel:

From the islet in the stream
The ju-jiu calls, “coo coo”.
A sweet, retiring girl
The princely man will woo.

But we have lost all the grace and motion of the original. The words no longer cut capers like:

Guan guan ju jiu
(Kuan-kuan chu-chiou)
Zai he zhi zhou
(Tsai ho chih chou)

More recently the trend of translation has turned to free verse. One can still breathe Chinese air in some of Arthur Waley’s renderings.^* A Japanese student of English literature, Shigeyoshi Obata has translated one hundred and twenty-four poems of Li Bai (Li Pai, or Li PoLike a true son of the Orient, he knows our beloved drunkard. Reading Obata gives one that touch of intimacy born of common understanding. Yet I wonder whether Mr. Obata has fully succeeded in interpreting Li Bai for the English reading public. With all his brilliant command of English, has he reproduced the color, the nuance, the graceful sweep of Li Bai’s seven-syllable lines? ^*** Without any intention to disparage the service he has rendered us, I shall present one or two examples from his translations to illustrate how well-nigh impossible it is to really understand the Chinese poets through the medium of another language.

Some of  the extracts are from a famous lecture series on Chinese literature I am very fond of. I couldnt somehow post Chinese characters here. But I will try to overcome this problem and improve this post.

The number of knobs in the picture is 9. The door is in the Forbidden City.

The Number 9 in China

The ancient Chinese considered 9 a significant number. They regarded odd numbers as masculine and female numbers are feminine. Nine is the largest odd number and is therefore considered the number of the ultimate masculine. It symbolized therefore supreme sovereignty and is therefore to be used by the Emperor alone. The multiples of nine are also used in the palaces.

The doors of the palaces have 9 knobs. No other person could have 9 knobs on their doors. Ancient palaces normally had 9 quadrangles or courtyards.

The buildings of the Forbidden City are traditionally measures as having total floor area of 9900 bays. The picturesque towers guarding the four towers have 9 beams each and 18 columns, and the three famous screens have 9 dragons on each.

The game of nine in the Temple of Heaven is a fascinating example of the ancient regal affinity for the number nine in ancient China. The altar is in three tiers. The upper terrace is made of nine concentric circles. The first ring consists of nine fan shaped slabs, the second ring and the third 27 going up to the last ring which has 81 slabs.

The New Year Dinner in the imperial house had 99 dishes. The celebrations of the Emperor’s birthday generally included the number 99 – a sign of good luck and longevity for the Emperor.

Glazed Tile:

China is well known for having discovered the process of firing clay and producing the finest ceramic tiles. It is interesting to note that glazed tile in ancient China was used exclusively on palace buildings of the imperial house of the big mansions of nobles or high officials.

The glaze was normally in one of the four colors: Yellow, Green, Blue and Black. Tiles were used not just as a building material but as a symbol of political power.

Yellow Tiles could be used only by the Emperor. It was used on the roofs of royal palaces, mausoleums, imperial gardens and temples. Yellow is the color of the Yellow River, the Mother river of the Chinese civilization. The first kings were known as Huangdi or the Yellow Emperor in keeping with the tradition of attributing the yellow color to the Chinese culture.

The cosmological beliefs of the Chinese people divided the cosmos into five elements – fire, earth, water, wood and metal. Earth was considered the center of the cosmos. Yellow was the color of Earth and therefore, the Emperor had rights of its colors. After all he ruled the Earth.

Green tiles were used for the officials’ quarters.

The color of the roof of the Wenyuange Library is black. Legend has it that black is the color of the water element. Black is used to secure the books from the dangers of fire!

The Temple of Heaven has blue tiles as blue is the color of Heaven.

China: Some points relating to the current economy, expected trends and salient features (Overall): China’s economy has grown rapidly so far this decade. Government policies have moved markedly towards allowing market forces influence economic activity. Polices covering the price determination, foreign trade, exchange rates, foreign investment, entry barriers, internal markets, the operation of state-owned enterprise and the financial system have all been changed. These reforms have boosted growth that stems, in an accounting sense, mainly from a rapid pace of capital accumulation, relying on a level of national saving that is approaching half of GDP. The policy changes have allowed a much increased role for the private sector and substantial foreign investment. Sustaining the recent pace of growth will require further reform to ensure that there is a continued improvement in the framework for the private sector, to complete the reform of the banking sector and ensure a stable macroeconomic environment. There are also a number of imbalances in the economy whose resolution would help improve growth and wellbeing. In particular, policy changes are needed to reduce the disparities between rural and urban incomes and increase the pace of urbanisation. Welfare would also be improved by further reductions in the high level of pollution.

1. Chinese companies will emerge prominently in the International market where production is key.

2. Moving away from the traditional agrarian sectors to manufacturing sectors, China is poised to move ahead confidently and make strides in taking their economy to new levels of productivity and growth.

3. China’s young population is now acquiring greater skills and has access to technical and modern education. With a higher and accelerating pace of improvement of skills sets in the nation, a better educated work force promises to be an asset for the future of China.

4. A continued pace of privatization in all sectors also promises to boost productivity levels and improve profitability at micro level.

Population: – Birth rates are dropping and therefore, fewer workers will be entering the work force in the coming years. Given the sharp drop in women of child bearing age, it is unlikely that China will be able to stem the trends in its population growth. The possibility that in 20 years, the major segment of the population will be between 40 and 60 years, this may prove to have a significant impact on consumption. China’s population is likely to peak in 2008, much earlier than predicted.

Environment: – Environmental degradation is a serious factor that has to be combated if China has to move on the right track to progress. Water is likely to be a crucial factor in the future with half the river waters having been rendered useless and polluted. – Water subsidies may be withdrawn to farmers and this might the impact the economy at large with food prices rising. This might also lead to an exodus from the countryside to urban areas thus deepening the environmental crises already surfacing in most cities. – 5 cities in China are among the ten most polluted cities in the world.

Trade: – China has already replaced USA as the major trading partner of most Asian countries. – China is embarking continuously on major investment on infrastructure and logistical support systems. The heavy spending when the cost of money is low may lead to a fallacy that there is a spurt in “demand” and such figures may lead to being considered as final.

Capital: – Investors who are offered free or cheap capital are likely to accept it despite the unpredictability of returns. – Foreign investors may not be competing with players in China itself but may be merely using China’s excess capacities.

Fiscal: – A fall in the volatility of the economy should lead to a structural fall in the savings rate and a concomitant increase in leverage. – An increase in the GDP is imminent. Fiscal policy in China has followed an extremely prudent path, keeping the level of government debt low and stable but following counter-cyclical polices when needed. Public expenditure relative to GDP is lower than in the OECD area largely owing to much less developed social transfer spending. Public spending may need some restructuring away from capital expenditure towards education and health spending. Social transfer spending also needs reform, which should build on the existing system of individual retirement accounts. Taxation has been kept low and has taken, on the whole, a pro-growth stance. But domestic corporate tax rates need to be lowered significantly as do the higher marginal tax rates on earned income. At the same time the base of the value-added tax needs to be widened partially making up for revenue losses elsewhere. Expenditure is to a greater extent decentralised than revenue, making a large part of sub-national governments dependent on transfers. There is scope to reform the inter-governmental fiscal system including bringing expenditure responsibilities at each level of government in line with financial resources and improving accountability. Finally, the budgetary system in China needs to be made more comprehensive and transparent. Financial Systems: – Improved financial intermediaries, especially through the development of a stock market, enabling increases in corporate profits to stimulate consumption rather than simply encouraging new investment. This chapter considers the changes that are needed to the financial system in China before it can adequately serve the growing private sector of the economy and provide diversified saving vehicles for individuals. Much progress has been made toward developing market oriented financial institutions and improving their internal capabilities to assess and manage risks and the stock and government bond markets have been developing rapidly. The basic institutions for an effective regulatory system have been put in place, and regulatory authorities are making good use of international standards and practices in their policies.

Going forward, financial reform involves five main and related challenges. The first is to deal with the legacy of the banking system: a very high stock of non-performing loans and low capitalisation. The second is to reform the structure of the banking system so that it can better support the real economy. The third is to further develop the capital markets and foster the growth of institutional investors. The fourth, and ultimately the most important, is to strengthen the ability of financial institutions to behave commercially and manage risks prudently, while the fifth is to continue improving the supervisory structure so that systemic risks are contained. These issues are all the more daunting given that the business environment is still evolving away from a state administered towards a market economy. (Sources: McKinsey Global Institute, Societe Generale, Cross Asset Research, Gavekal Research, Dragonomics, IMF reports on China) -

The Chinese word Gong is translated into English as Palace. However, this word in its root could mean anything right from a small house. As the language progressed, during the early Qin Dynasty (221-206 B.C.), Gong came to mean specifically a group of buildings in which the Emperor lives with his entourage. History clearly shows how palaces emerged larger and larger as regimes after regimes ruled China. Whenever the King traveled in Summer or for a break, the place where he lived was called Xinggong or mobile palace. The famous Summer Palace is an example of such a palace. Zhaigong is a place where the King performed rituals necessary to benefit the nation and its people. The Temple of Heaven located in Beijing is an example of Zhaigong.

The Forbidden City is one of the classic Palaces in China. A small group of buildings within the large complex are also known as gongs. The dwelling of the female members of the royal family dwelt in Kunninggong or the Palace of Female Tranquillity. The palace of the Emperor is Qianqinggong or the Palace of Heavenly Purity.

The Chinese Emperors paid a lot of attention life after death and paid attention to building elaborate necropolises. These were known as digong or Underground palaces.

The term Gong is also extended to some temples. Potala in Lhasa, Tibet is referred to as a gong. The Lama Temple in Beijing is known as Yonghegong. The Tao temples are known as Sanqinggong or Palace of triple purity.

I remember my first visit to the Great Wall of China. I was so excited that I started clicking pictures of the Wall from the approach road itself. Winding round great altitudes, the Great Wall beckoned me to fathom the depths of its environment. Walking round treading cautiously with gravel and stones on the ground, I wondered about the masons who lay the stones patiently in the days when technology was yet to arrive.

 The Great Wall speaks volumes about the people who built it. It clearly reveals the greatness of the populace which raised this wall in defence of its people. It shows that the rulers of China were visionaries and saw their country as a vast area and mighty lengths. The Great Wall is a phenomenon and anything one writes falls short of its glory and greatness. Did the builders ever imagine that even wearing a T Shirt which says – I visited the Great Wall makes one feel pompous and wonderful!

 Today hordes and hordes of tourists visit the Great Wall. Taking pictures as they stand on the ramparts, they see it as a photo shot. The environment around is so mountainous, so hostile with its severe winters, can one ever imagine the discomforts and travails of the laborers in the past.

 As my eyes trace the meandering blocks of stones winding round the elevations, I see the poetry of the masons in stone. I close my eyes and try to imagine the aggressive past. Mongol warriors trying to breach the wall to enter the interiors of China, brave soldiers in the tower houses stoutly defending their nation, people living around always insecure and swamped by the loess winds and snow storms! Are there words to capture emotions and fears of the past? History is always about those who remained in the front – kings, ministers, lovers, schemers, charlatans  etc The common man about whom the world is, on whom the leaders depend on for their very sustenance are crushed amidst the tides and turns of the wheels of time. I see the ghost and shadow of the brave masons who laid the stones patiently to build a stronger nation and draw the contours of their borders. I see the proud Kings who drew solace from the mighty walls and how they would announce to future generations about their clans and names and genes. I sometimes see a small arch or a post standing lone, with the main walls having given way to the ravages of time and disaster! How strange is destiny that swallows some in its tongues of oblivion and yet renders some stones immortal!

Musing, mulling over all these points, I walked upon the walls. I think about contemporary China. Deng Xiao Ping and his dreams of a great nation. I think of that moment when he gave a call in the paddy fields of Guangdong to build a might city. I think of Shenzhen, its green areas, it sky scrapers, its roads, the metro, the gardens and jog strips. Am I surprised that the Chinese people have raised such a great country with world class infra-structure? Can we expect anything less from these people. They were mighty builders. They are mighty builders. And they will be mighty builders.

The Symbolism of Flowers and Plants in Chinese Culture

After experiencing severe temperatures up to 37 degrees in Beijing, it is a pleasure to be in Shanxi. It is cool here and temperatures are between 17 and 25 degrees.

I am working this week in the Shanxi province. One of the most ancient cradles of Chinese civilizations, today the province is backward and the signs are evident. The airport is not so chic, the roads aren’t as well tarred as the rest of China and the countryside is full of poor farmers and scruffy houses. Yet today it is the center of tourism and it is almost impossible to get a hotel in this province.

Shanxi being at the North end was always strategically important as a defense center. The ancient empires always paid importance to building up military resources here as it was susceptible to conquests from the Mongols in the north and nomadic tribes of the northern areas. It has also been attacked by Japan in more recent times; nonetheless, the coal mining activity here was initially developed by them. Today the best crystal ware and glass ware in Europe is manufactured here.

The capital city Taiyuan was visited by Marco Polo in the 13^th century. He observes that the city was an economic center. He also speaks of the numerous armed conflicts in the city. There are 27 temples for the War Gods in the capital city of Taiyuan whom the ancient Chinese soldiers worshipped for success in warfare.

China’s best preserved Ming architecture is in Shanxi and today Pingyao the walled city is a UNESCO heritage site. It attracts tourists from the world over and is a backpacker’s delight. I am very close to this town and revel in the delights of this miraculously preserved city. The wall is intact and perhaps the oldest living wall in China. Signs of Shelling from an earlier Japanese attack are intact and one can see them clearly on the walls. The city has several hundreds of old houses, the oldest Bank in China and many temples, monasteries, pagodas and auditoriums.

Pingyao was on the silk route between Beijing and Xian. It emerged as the leading banking center and was at its height during the Qing regime. Rishencheng, the oldest bank in China is today a museum in Pingyao. Even two centuries back, the bank issued demand drafts accepted in Korea, Japan and Vietnam. The Government does not allow any petrol or diesel driven vehicles inside. Only battery run Golf carts are allowed inside.

There are two old Buddha temples outside the wall – Shuangling and Zhenghuo. These temples are closely connected to India with the idols of Buddha, the arhats, the dwarapalas etc Names like Yama, Duryodhana, Rahula astonish the Indian visitor. India conquered Asia through its cultural riches such as Buddhism. The temples have a serenity in spite of the cultural revolution which had thrown all temples and monasteries in a crisis. The figures of the Buddha have a majestic aura and the murals on the walls are colorful and remind visitors of the ancient connection between these two countries.

There is a famous movie maker in China called Zhang Yimou who is now world famous. He has always made visually striking movies and earlier he made period movies as symbols of the communist government as it was difficult for movie makers to make direct comments on the administration. One of his movies, Raise the Red Lantern was made near Pingyao. It is an old mansion of the Qing empire style. It is built in the courtyard style and has more than 600 rooms. It was built by a tea merchant. The ornate complex attracts tourists by the hundreds every day.