Palaces in China

The Chinese word Gong is translated into English as Palace. However, this word in its root could mean anything right from a small house. As the language progressed, during the early Qin Dynasty (221-206 B.C.), Gong came to mean specifically a group of buildings in which the Emperor lives with his entourage. History clearly shows how palaces emerged larger and larger as regimes after regimes ruled China. Whenever the King traveled in Summer or for a break, the place where he lived was called Xinggong or mobile palace. The famous Summer Palace is an example of such a palace. Zhaigong is a place where the King performed rituals necessary to benefit the nation and its people. The Temple of Heaven located in Beijing is an example of Zhaigong.

 

The Forbidden City is one of the classic Palaces in China. A small group of buildings within the large complex are also known as gongs. The dwelling of the female members of the royal family dwelt in Kunninggong or the Palace of Female Tranquillity. The palace of the Emperor is Qianqinggong or the Palace of Heavenly Purity.

 

The Chinese Emperors paid a lot of attention life after death and paid attention to building elaborate necropolises. These were known as digong or Underground palaces.

 

The term Gong is also extended to some temples. Potala in Lhasa, Tibet is referred to as a gong. The Lama Temple in Beijing is known as Yonghegong. The Tao temples are known as Sanqinggong or Palace of triple purity.

The Great Wall of China

I remember my first visit to the Great Wall of China. I was so excited that I started clicking pictures of the Wall from the approach road itself. Winding round great altitudes, the Great Wall beckoned me to fathom the depths of its environment. Walking round treading cautiously with gravel and stones on the ground, I wondered about the masons who lay the stones patiently in the days when technology was yet to arrive.

 The Great Wall speaks volumes about the people who built it. It clearly reveals the greatness of the populace which raised this wall in defence of its people. It shows that the rulers of China were visionaries and saw their country as a vast area and mighty lengths. The Great Wall is a phenomenon and anything one writes falls short of its glory and greatness. Did the builders ever imagine that even wearing a T Shirt which says – I visited the Great Wall makes one feel pompous and wonderful!

 Today hordes and hordes of tourists visit the Great Wall. Taking pictures as they stand on the ramparts, they see it as a photo shot. The environment around is so mountainous, so hostile with its severe winters, can one ever imagine the discomforts and travails of the laborers in the past.

 As my eyes trace the meandering blocks of stones winding round the elevations, I see the poetry of the masons in stone. I close my eyes and try to imagine the aggressive past. Mongol warriors trying to breach the wall to enter the interiors of China, brave soldiers in the tower houses stoutly defending their nation, people living around always insecure and swamped by the loess winds and snow storms! Are there words to capture emotions and fears of the past? History is always about those who remained in the front – kings, ministers, lovers, schemers, charlatans  etc The common man about whom the world is, on whom the leaders depend on for their very sustenance are crushed amidst the tides and turns of the wheels of time. I see the ghost and shadow of the brave masons who laid the stones patiently to build a stronger nation and draw the contours of their borders. I see the proud Kings who drew solace from the mighty walls and how they would announce to future generations about their clans and names and genes. I sometimes see a small arch or a post standing lone, with the main walls having given way to the ravages of time and disaster! How strange is destiny that swallows some in its tongues of oblivion and yet renders some stones immortal!

Musing, mulling over all these points, I walked upon the walls. I think about contemporary China. Deng Xiao Ping and his dreams of a great nation. I think of that moment when he gave a call in the paddy fields of Guangdong to build a might city. I think of Shenzhen, its green areas, it sky scrapers, its roads, the metro, the gardens and jog strips. Am I surprised that the Chinese people have raised such a great country with world class infra-structure? Can we expect anything less from these people. They were mighty builders. They are mighty builders. And they will be mighty builders.

In the cradle of Chinese civilization

  

After experiencing severe temperatures up to 37 degrees in Beijing, it is a pleasure to be in Shanxi. It is cool here and temperatures are between 17 and 25 degrees.

I am working this week in the Shanxi province. One of the most ancient cradles of Chinese civilizations, today the province is backward and the signs are evident. The airport is not so chic, the roads aren’t as well tarred as the rest of China and the countryside is full of poor farmers and scruffy houses. Yet today it is the center of tourism and it is almost impossible to get a hotel in this province.

Shanxi being at the North end was always strategically important as a defense center. The ancient empires always paid importance to building up military resources here as it was susceptible to conquests from the Mongols in the north and nomadic tribes of the northern areas. It has also been attacked by Japan in more recent times; nonetheless, the coal mining activity here was initially developed by them. Today the best crystal ware and glass ware in Europe is manufactured here.

The capital city Taiyuan was visited by Marco Polo in the 13^th century. He observes that the city was an economic center. He also speaks of the numerous armed conflicts in the city. There are 27 temples for the War Gods in the capital city of Taiyuan whom the ancient Chinese soldiers worshipped for success in warfare.

China’s best preserved Ming architecture is in Shanxi and today Pingyao the walled city is a UNESCO heritage site. It attracts tourists from the world over and is a backpacker’s delight. I am very close to this town and revel in the delights of this miraculously preserved city. The wall is intact and perhaps the oldest living wall in China. Signs of Shelling from an earlier Japanese attack are intact and one can see them clearly on the walls. The city has several hundreds of old houses, the oldest Bank in China and many temples, monasteries, pagodas and auditoriums.

Pingyao was on the silk route between Beijing and Xian. It emerged as the leading banking center and was at its height during the Qing regime. Rishencheng, the oldest bank in China is today a museum in Pingyao. Even two centuries back, the bank issued demand drafts accepted in Korea, Japan and Vietnam. The Government does not allow any petrol or diesel driven vehicles inside. Only battery run Golf carts are allowed inside.

There are two old Buddha temples outside the wall – Shuangling and Zhenghuo. These temples are closely connected to India with the idols of Buddha, the arhats, the dwarapalas etc Names like Yama, Duryodhana, Rahula astonish the Indian visitor. India conquered Asia through its cultural riches such as Buddhism. The temples have a serenity in spite of the cultural revolution which had thrown all temples and monasteries in a crisis. The figures of the Buddha have a majestic aura and the murals on the walls are colorful and remind visitors of the ancient connection between these two countries.

There is a famous movie maker in China called Zhang Yimou who is now world famous. He has always made visually striking movies and earlier he made period movies as symbols of the communist government as it was difficult for movie makers to make direct comments on the administration. One of his movies, Raise the Red Lantern was made near Pingyao. It is an old mansion of the Qing empire style. It is built in the courtyard style and has more than 600 rooms. It was built by a tea merchant. The ornate complex attracts tourists by the hundreds every day.

With a Chinese family in Haerbin

This trip to China is special. Special, because I was invited by a Chinese family to their home. My colleague Jojo and I found ourselves close to the Zheilongjiang province. She invited me to her home. I accepted her invitation and found myself at the receiving end of the hospitality of the family.

Mr. Li is an interesting person and deals with animals and plants. He doesn’t like working for anyone. And of course, employment opportunities were rare in his younger days. He is happy running his own horticulture business. Jojo tells me that he has a passion for birds and plants. He often spends time in the forests around and traps birds to be sold to bird lovers. He is a Han Chinese. Jojo’s mother is from an aristocratic Manchu family. Most of them are now called the Man minority community. All the properties and assets of the family were seized during the Communist revolution. They went through deprivations and struggled for even one square meal. She helps her husband to run the Plant business. She worked for a factory but lost her job as most State undertakings closed down and this province was left with a large number of persons unemployed. Visiting this family was an enlightening experience. I have only read about filial piety or the Chinese philosophy of serving your family to your utmost. But this time I saw it at first hand. Their love for their daughter was moving. They were at the railway station. They doted on her and though they could not afford it, they kept buying digital cameras, laptops and other things that she would need for her work. They received me as one of them; they were disappointed as I am a vegetarian. A feast with pork delicacies awaited me. Well, some things are difficult to describe – the love and affection of this family for a stranger is something that defies description. It filled my heart with hope. In a world when relationships are crumbling, here is a country which honors relationships and family ties. The stable family is what kept China going through the horrors of the cultural revolution. Today, in spite of a consumerist set up, the people have their small families to reach out to for support and caring.

Harbin or Haerbin is the capital city of Heilongzhiang province. I am lucky that I landed here in Summer. Harbin has the Siberian winds and is snow filled for most of the year. The weather this time was pleasant and comfortable.

Harbin city was established in the Soviet era and is a repository of Russian architecture. It is a large city and the population of the city exceeds 10 million. After the Russian Civil War of 1918, the white monarchist refugees landed in Harbin in large numbers. The influence remains clearly visible in the building styles and foods. Harbin, which had been nothing more than a Russian-built outpost of the railway, has managed to become a major player in her own right. It is first of all the capital of Heilongjiang Province. The city was founded in 1897 as a camp for Russian engineers surveying the Trans-Siberian Railway. The Labor was brought in a collection of outcasts from across Russia, Poland and even from within Manchuria. The town eventually was captured by the Japanese during World War II and later captured back by the Chinese in 1946. Since economic reforms went into effect in the 1980s, Southern and Eastern China have experienced a time of great growth, Harbin and the greater Northeastern areas of China started their growth later, in the mid 90s. Northeastern China was originally built up as an industrial center using pre-exsting Soviet and Japanese factories. Once the 1980’s rolled around these outdated and inefficient factories could no longer keep up. To further complicate matters, starting in the early 90’s large portions of China’s State Owned Enterprise workers were laid off. Thus, like many other cities in this region contemporary Harbin is struggling with an aging work force and a lot of laid off workers who have been unable to find re-employment. Private enterprise is mostly centered in the service sector, retail, restaurants, etc. with most large scale enterprises still state owned. However, the province has thousands of state-owned enterprises up for sale and many have been purchased since the late 1990s. Numerous Universities in Harbin also play a vital role in the economy, for their traditional role, research and subsidiary companies. Harbin has Russian streets, Chinese Streets and Japanese streets. The roads are full of shops selling Russian ware. There is a wonderful orthodox church here called St Sophia. A street, the Zhongyang Street is filled with Russian style rooves and spires. Walking on it, one could smell Russian food and shop for the beautiful Russian dolls which Harbin is so famous for. Surprise, surprise, there is an Indian street here. It is full of Indian restaurants. There are also shops selling Indian clothes and articles. Harbin is famous for its crystal clear putonghua or standard Mandarin. It’s one of the few places in the country where you can understand what the locals are saying on the streets. Besides having standard mandarin, the city can be a pleasant and cheap alternative to Beijing for the study of Mandarin Chinese. Most universities are full with Korean and Russian students and there are 2-3 cheap western cafes and a small but lively foreign student social scene that can be seen at the local expat hangouts on the weekends such as Blues and The Box.  As the weekend in Harbin came to an end, I was sad. My work never took me to Heilongzhiang and it was because of my friend that I could visit this strange and beautiful city. My friend’s parents had filled a big plastic bag full of fruits and Russian bread. Harbin is definitely a backward part of China but does not lack the human touch. It is alive and sensitive.   

Winter in North China

It has been raining incessantly. As I travelled in the expressway, I noticed several accidents. The roads are slippery and traveling seems dangerous. I am traveling in a bus. The bus imitates the airlines and there is a well groomed hostess. She makes announcements, she serves us mineral water and Chinese tea. She also gives us some snacks. The seats are super comfortable. There is a rest room of the standards that we find in the airplanes. Travelling is not such a pain in China. The Government by the way has introduced bullet trains in the lines of the TGV of France. This is to boost the facilities for the foreign investors and buyers. Bullet trains connect Beijing and Shanghai; Beijing and Tianjin.The roadside is full of facilities. Inns, motels, canteens, rest rooms for visitors. The standard of these facilities is first rate and can match the US and Europe.

Hebei province where I am now is under developed. Shijiazhuang is the capital of this province. Chengde was the ancient resting place of the emperor and his family. The Imperial resting palace is a tribute to the Qin masters of architecture. Manchu icons mingle with the Ming remnants of architectural inspiration. Such places are well conserved and well organized for tourism. The tourists are required to contribute for maintenance. The tourist centers are classifies as A, AA, AAA, The charges differ according to the grade. The tourist centers have ticket boots, canteens, well maintained lawns and flower beds, extensive literature, sales centers, ice cream booths, camera shops with batteries and film rolls for sale. Everything that a tourist needs is catered to.

Yesterday I viewed the new Traffic control system for Beijing on the English Channel. The Police Vehicles are fitted with high tech computers, Global Positioning System and tablet PCs for the police to enter data such as accident data. They are also equipped with wireless internet and sophisticated communications and announcement systems. Most of it designed right here in China.

Today I am in the factory of a State undertaking. It has a smart look and a smart management. The manager has been to the US number of times.

   

A Transformed Nation

  When in India, I observe that people gasp with disbelief when I tell them about China. Indians and people in other countries too judge China by the cheap goods they see in China towns. Cheap bulbs, cheap lamps, cheap fabric, cheap almost everything. What is it that impresses the outsider. China is quite comparable with India. It is huge, the population is large, much of the economy is dependant on the agricultural sector. Perhaps a few decades ago, China too was dirty, lacked clean sanitation systems, waste handling was primitive, roads were few, airports were not well developed, industry was not modernized. Then came the Deng Xiao Ping era. The four modernization program was implemented. Modernization of agriculture, of industry, of Science and Technology and of National Defence. In practical terms this meant “electricity in the rural areas, industrial automation, a new economic outlook, and greatly enhanced defense strength.”  

• Changes toward capitalism began under the leadership of Deng Xiaoping (1979-1997), when China opened its doors to international trade and economic reform.
• Socialism was blended with a free-market economy and agricultural collectives were disbanded, allowing peasants to profit from the portion of their production that was designated as surplus.
• Regions were selected as special economic zones to encourage foreign investment and technology and to increase Chinese exports.
• The economic reforms of China have been seen as an entrepreneurial revolution paradoxically created by a communist government.
• However, progress in state-owned enterprises has not been as fast as the government would like. On Sept. 12, 1997, President Jiang Zemin opened the 15th Party Congress with the announcement that there still are thousands of unprofitable state industries.
• President Jiang Zemin proposed eliminating state companies that were not making a profit within three years. His goal was to convert most of China’s 305,000 state companies into shareholder-owned corporations

 To make money is glorious said the new icon of modern China. In less than 2 decades, there were phenomenal changes. Phenomenal because, the red curtain of the yesteryears did not make it possible for China to have the true exposure to modern countries and its infra-structure. With its communist Government, no loans were availed from the World Bank and it was certainly not dependant on grants or funding. The entire task of rebuilding and constructing China was incubated and launched as the brilliant task that Deng undertook along with his comrades. Foreign investors were roped in. Consortium loans were sought successfully. Hong Kong, the most brilliant and free of economies reverted back to China. Today any visitor to China can see the results. That it has been such a thoroughgoing exercise is obvious to any viewer.As one drives along the expressways, one sees the landscape designed in a professional manner. Roadsides are concreted to avoid land slides. There are well manicured lawns and flower beds dotting the roadsides. This dominates 100s of miles at a stretch. The toll booths are immaculate constructions with well groomed staff to offer services. There are motels and inns that meet the tourists through their journey on the expressways. Neat and well maintained rest rooms and clean cafeterias meet the demand for travel facilities.

There are disparities between the standard of living between the new executive communities found in plenty in the corporate centers like Shanghai, Qingdao, Beijing, Tianjin, Hangzhou etc. The development in the coastal cities does not spread to the hinterland. However, millions flock to the cities for jobs. The Government still controls residence by insisting on residency permits. Without the permits, the citizens cannot receive social security.

The economic achievements of the Chinese will remain a model for study. Amartya Sen calls it an admirable model. The economy is the second largest in the world and also the fastest growing. The way forward is an uphill task. It has miles to go before catching up with the USA. However, it has thrust Asia to a foremost position.

As for me, I am unaware of the nuances of the Chinese language and neither am I familiar with the culture of the people. But I am most comfortable here. This is first and foremost a safe country. No terrorism, a stable family based society, a Government which places enforcement as a condition for law and order. Action taken against wrong doers is swift and result oriented. The life style and standards are affordable and comfortable, The roads are clean and are maintained by the local government. The buildings are high rise and match up to international standards. The average man on the street has a smile on his face.

The cultural and economic implication of an overheated economy is another subject. Consumerism is a disease that can infect society. Can this society hold out? After all despite the communist onslaught on religions and philosophical stream, the country has a history of a few thousands of years. Will it stand the test of prosperity and a dominant position in the world? We have to wait and watch.

A blog too late

Ming Walls In the last few years, all that I have only heard from all my friends is Lata, blog, blog,blog. So is this a blog that comes too late? It is never too late to do the correct thing. Havent we all heard this repeated! I am Lata. I am a professional consultant. I was born in Kolkata but lived in small towns and villages all my life. Attracted by the philosophy of Sri Aurobindo, I was attracted to Pondicherry. Living in Pondicherry opened my eyes to the large cultural diversity that has survived colonialism, genocides, crusades and what not. Never did I dream that I would be travelling all over the world thanks to my job.

 My first blog is going to be about my favorite country, China. I have visited China more than 20 times and keep going there all the time. I am never tired of this energetic, large, populous country. It invigorates me, nourishes me and enlightens me all the time with its ancient wisdom and deep philosphy.

Let me start with the east end of China. The Ming dynasty built the wall at this end to protect its borders from Korea. Let me recount my trip to Dandong, located in Liaoning province.

The weekend in Dandong was a delightful one. Dandong boasts of the beginnings of the Eastern Section of the Great Wall. My colleague Sophia and I set out to have a look and spend an afternoon at the Wall. The Great Wall built by the Ming rulers in this spot is located at a distance of 20kms from Dandong city. It was a better experience for me to see the wall here as it is still in the rural settings. In the Badaling section in Beijing, the setting is so touristic. Moreover, it is extremely crowded and full of people. In Dandong, seeing the wall in its curvaceous journey through the mountain peaks at close quarters was an unusual and once in a lifetime experience. The wall is excellently maintained, except in the initial stretch where it seems to be falling into pieces. We took a walk on the wall and covered approximately 2kms. The loose stones on the floors present dangers of slipping and falling and one has to watch out. We took plenty of pictures and all in all it was a quiet and humbling experience. After a jaunt on the walls, we went to the Great Wall Museum where the scenes of the different wars were presented. Unfortunately everything was in Chinese and I was unable to read everything.

In the evening we went to the Yaloo river and tried to look at Siniuji in North Korea. There are lots of factories and housing quarters on the other side. A bridge takes you to the other side and Chinese citizens can freely go over. Foreigners have to wait for a month to get a pass to go to North Korea. We took the usual  pictures to say that we have been close to the forbidden country of North Korea.

Generally we have been moving around this peninsula which is called the Liadong Peninsula. Each city has its own website with all kinds of information.

Yingkou is another place in the Dalian-Dandong region. Look at the following URL to see how the Chinese Government markets its cities and towns for foreign investment.

 http://english.yingkou.net.cn/index.html